ESTONIA
From time to time various countries catch the imagination of the travelling birdwatcher, and become very popular almost overnight. Estonia has rapidly become a favourite. Having completed eight successful trips to this Baltic country, we have been enthralled by the surprises it has to offer. With its Siberian-like forests, Scandinavian peat-bogs, watermeadows full of geese and waders, and a fascinating coastline, together with a low human population, empty roads and excellent infrastructure we have found it impossible to fault the country.
Our quest for Great Snipe, Red-necked Grebe, Long-tailed Duck, White-tailed
Eagle, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Capercaillie, Ural Owl, Wryneck, Thrush
Nightingale, Penduline Tit, Common Rosefinch and various other eastern
migrants will see us visiting a substantial portion of this small country.
Estonia's wetlands are situated on the Baltic flyway and are used as a brief
stopover for migrants en route to Siberia. The birdwatching record books are
being re-written as birders log amazing numbers of migrants here.
The timing of our visit is critical; any earlier and some sought-after summer migrants will not have arrived; any later and the spectacular wildfowl migration would be finished and the Great Snipes would be hidden in long grass. Get it just right, as we believe we have, and it is possible to watch the lekking antics of Great Snipe, find migrant Red-breasted Flycatcher, Common Rosefinch and Corncrake and listen to the songs of Thrush Nightingale and Wryneck from our bedroom windows!
Estonia is a wonderful land that gives a glimpse of how Western Europe used to be before the ravages of modern man took their toll. It holds annual surprises, as migration is very unpredictable but always rewarding.
Having arrived at Tallinn, we will drive straight to Lihula, a journey of 70 miles. Situated at the edge of Estonia's premier reserve, Lihula is an ideal base for Matsalu Bay, as well as for visiting the South Vainameri Straits.
Matsalu is one of the most important wetlands in Northern Europe; a vast coastal
bay where deciduous and mixed forests give way to water-meadows, huge reedbeds
and a large but shallow lagoon. Black-tailed Godwits breed; Bitterns boom;
White-tailed Eagles hunt nervous wildfowl; and Fieldfare nest colonially in
villages. Wrynecks are fairly common, the first Red-breasted Flycatchers should
be arriving, Red-backed Shrikes are likely, and we will check the flooded fields
for Garganey and three species of harrier. White Storks are common, nesting in
close proximity to farmhouses, and the rare Black Stork is also possible.
One day we will look for migrating birds using the South-Vainameri Straits. A
staggering one million Long-tailed Ducks pass through Vainameri on migration,
peaking in May. Velvet and Common Scoters, Goldeneye, Common Eider and
Black-throated and Red-throated Divers all move through, given favourable winds.
Migration can be unpredictable, but has the potential to provide surprises. On
one visit, raptor migration was obvious, with Golden, White-tailed and Lesser
Spotted Eagles coming in off the sea. They were accompanied by Rough-legged
Buzzard, Osprey, Hobby and Common Crane. Barnacle Geese use the area as a
rest-stop, and up to ten thousand birds can be seen, again peaking in May. The
beautiful Red-breasted Goose regularly occurs, but finding one can be a
challenge. Waders present include summer-plumage Ruff, Black-tailed Godwit,
Turnstone and jet black Spotted Redshank, whilst numerous terns can include
Caspian, Little, Arctic and Sandwich. In broadleaf forest Thrush Nightingale
will be singing, having just arrived from African wintering grounds. Elsewhere
this is a difficult species, but we have enjoyed amazing views of this skulker
on each trip.
Attractive woodland flowers should just be coming into bloom. Camberwell Beauties and Map butterflies may be seen sunning themselves, while Icterine Warblers and Hawfinch are fairly common. Even in the towns, Fieldfares provide entertainment as they see off Jackdaws and Hooded Crows.
On day four we will drive south down the coast to Haademeeste, for a stay of two nights. This small town is ideally situated to visit the famous Nigula Bog, as well as nearby Kabli bird observatory.
Our hotel is situated in a delightful area, where short walks have produced
sightings of such diverse birds as Common Rosefinch, Pied Flycatcher, Crested
Tit, Capercaillie, Serin and Grey-headed Wagtail. A short drive will bring us to
Nigula Bog where we will see an example of a raised peat bog, one of the most
threatened habitats in Europe. Although short on bird species the experience of
looking into the bottomless inky black pools is not to be missed. Plants are
interesting here, with Bog Rosemary and Shuttlecock Fern very common. On
previous trips we have enjoyed incredible views of Ural Owl and Greater Spotted
Eagle. Common Crane and Wood Sandpiper are a regular sight, breeding in the bog.
Occasional Northern Grey Shrikes can be seen perched on stunted pine trees and
Goldeneye nest by the pools. Walking across the peat bog on a boardwalk we will
reach a wooded 'island' where ‘Northern’ Bullfinch, ‘Northern’ Nuthatch,
'Boreal' Willow Tit (all northern races of familiar birds) can be found. Black
Stork, Black Grouse, Capercaillie and Lesser Spotted Eagle all nest in the area,
but can be hard to find. Middle-spotted, Three-toed, Grey-headed, White-backed
and Black Woodpeckers have all be seen by our previous groups.
We will also check reedbeds and ponds along the Baltic shore. Early risers may have already seen the visible migration, as wildfowl and waders head north. These may include Velvet Scoters, Common Scoters, Little Gulls and Black-throated Divers. The coastal ponds are home to nesting Penduline Tit, Great Reed Warbler and Garganey, while migrants seen here in the past have included Serin and both Red-backed and Northern Grey Shrike. Ospreys and Common Cranes can be seen heading northwards; visible migration is one of Estonia’s highlights.
Later we will head east to Tartu, for our final two nights. Here we will check the marshes for migrant waders and wildfowl. Black Terns nest on floating vegetation, while Little Gulls form large feeding flocks that periodically break away to drive off a marauding harrier or Goshawk. Wryneck, Penduline Tit, Common Rosefinch, Golden Oriole and Redwing nest in the copses and Savi’s Warblers reel from the reedbeds. Marsh, River and Barred Warblers may also be found, whilst wet meadows resound to the rasping calls of Corncrakes. Migrant geese may still be moving through. Bean and White-fronted are regular, in turn attracting White-tailed Eagles.
In the evening we will look for lekking Great Snipe. Estonia has become the place to see this species. There is also the possibility of seeing Ural Owl and Woodcock.
There are plenty of sites to visit. These include peat bogs, large fishponds, flooded meadows or taiga forest. The list of possible species is almost endless. Hazelhen and Nutcracker are possible in the woods, but are not seen on every trip. The white-breasted Scandinavian race of Nuthatch, Black Woodpecker, Red-breasted Flycatcher and Wood Warbler are all more likely. We have seen Citrine Wagtail increase from a rarity to become a regular breeding species.
Estonia is one of the few European countries to retain healthy populations of European Beaver, Brown Bear and Moose. All are naturally shy and difficult to see, but we have seen all three on previous tours.
On day eight we will head back to Tallinn for our flight home. Alternatively, why not extend your stay and spend a couple of days visiting Tallinn?
Breakfast will be taken at about 7am, perhaps later if the previous day has been tiring. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and short/medium length walks on the flat will be undertaken regularly. There are no uphill walks.
Full-board accommodation is provided with three nights at the Hotel Luige Villa, near Matsalu, two nights at the Valge Hotel, near Nigula and two nights at the Park Hotel in Tartu. All hotels are of good standard and all rooms have en suite facilities. Packed lunches will be taken every day.
PRICE INCLUDES …..
All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board accommodation (starting with dinner on 16th, ending with breakfast on 23rd), local transport by mini-bus, reserve entrance fees, soft drinks at meal-times, international flights and airport taxes.
Our optional travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry.
Return flights from Manchester to Tallinn (via Helsinki) using the scheduled services of BA and Finnair. Outbound flight departs mid-morning, with return landing late afternoon.
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7 nights:
Principal leader:
Maximum group size:
Cost with discount (if you book before 31st January 2009):
Full Cost:
Single supplement:
Deposit:
Insurance premium:
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16th to 23rd May 2009
Paul J. Willoughby
7 clients with one leader
£1280 per person sharing
£1380 per person sharing
£115
£300
£26 due at time of booking (£39 for age 65 to 69) (£52 for age 70 and over)
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We have managed to see Ural Owl on all five tours to Estonia. This one posed nicely in 2005.
Cranes are common nesting birds in Estonia. At the time of our tour, local birds are starting to nest, while Russian birds are passing through.
Common Rosefinches are seen from mid-May
Barnacle Geese over the Baltic - chased by a White-tailed Eagle
Migrating Bluethroats are difficult to spot as they are real skulkers. This one fed around boats in a small harbour at Matsalu.
We found a Citrine Wagtail on our first trip to Estonia when it was a very rare bird. Since then, they have become regular breeders.
The first Corncrakes arrive at the time of our visit. The shorter vegetation at this time helps us to locate these and the Great Snipe.
Penduline Tits will be nest-building. This male showed well in 2005.
An Estonian meadow in early spring
The peat bogs attract breeding Wood sandpiper, Black-tailed Godwit and Common Gull
Meadows around Matsalu Bay
The pine forest is home to Nutcracker, Crested Tit, Bear & Capercaillie
Migrating Swallows rest at Matsalu
The Northern Nuthatches have white breasts. This bird nested next to our hotel.
Estonian Manor House.
The Elk or Moose is common at Matsalu
Estonia is home to several reed-loving skulkers. The Great Reed Warbler is perhaps the most likely to be heard first.
Red-breasted Flycatcher is normally located by its song.
Wood Warblers sing in every park.