SLOVAKIA AND NORTHERN HUNGARY
As Eastern Europe opens its arms to the west we are privileged to be able to go birding in places where the countryside still supports good numbers of large mammals and healthy bird populations.
Slovakia has some of the wildest scenery in Europe. Being mountainous, it has habitats and species quite different to our other itineraries in Eastern Europe.
It is a place where one feels that the environmental clock has stood still for 100 years or more. A place where bears, boars, wolves and lynx are still common; all indicators of a healthy environment. The infrastructure has now developed to provide the comforts desired by modern travellers.
For years Hungary has been a popular birding destination, but during a trip there we crossed the Slovakian border and found a hidden gem – the Tatra Mountains. Our tour takes us to the High Tatras in search of Nutcrackers, Chamois and Golden Eagles, and the Low Tatras for Pygmy Owls, bears and woodpeckers. Nestled between these two great mountain ranges is a high plain where many birds, rare in Hungary, have high breeding populations.
We then move to the Slovakian Karst and finally the Bűkk Mountains in Hungary. Both areas have ancient beech forests in sheltered limestone valleys. These botanically rich valleys are home to many butterflies and the enigmatic Fire Salamander. This is the heart of Ural Owl country, and where Collared and Red-breasted Flycatchers sing in spring. There are plains too, where Lesser Spotted and Eastern Imperial Eagles hunt over fields below historic castles and villages.
After our morning flight to Budapest, we follow the River Danube north into Slovakia. Before crossing the border, we should have time to look for Rock Bunting and Eagle Owl. Keeping an eye on the crags overlooking the Danube where big-horned Mouflon thrive, we will ascend the Low Tatra Mountain Range, reaching our hotel in time for dinner.
For the first three nights, our base will be the quaint village of Liptovsky Jan where Black Redstarts and Serins are garden birds. Dippers and Grey Wagtails feed in the stream flowing down from the Low Tatras and Ravens kronk overhead as they see off Lesser Spotted Eagles.
Our exact programme will be determined by weather conditions, as there should still be snow on the highest peaks. The first day will probably take us into the forests of the Low Tatras in search of White-backed and Three-toed Woodpeckers and Eurasian Pygmy-owl. A male Eurasian Pygmy-owl showed extremely well on one visit, whilst Tengmalm’s Owl was the highlight of our last trip.
Fieldfares nest at lower elevations while Ring Ouzel of the frosty-looking alpestris race occurs higher up. Roe Deer, Red Squirrels and Red Foxes are very common and are frequently seen. This is also one of the best areas in Europe for Wild Boar, Lynx and Wolf – we have seen many tracks and signs.
There is also a healthy population of Brown Bears in the Low Tatras. Here they den and give birth in limestone caves. We have seen bears here while out birding; an encounter with a bear in its true wilderness environment is a rare and magical experience. Sightings are not guaranteed but we have a good chance of seeing one.
Our next day should see us in the High Tatras in search of forest birds such as Nutcracker, which does not occur in the Low Tatras. There are also Crossbills, Wood Warblers, Firecrests and Crested Tits. There are difficult birds to look for such as Hazel Grouse, and Pygmy and Tengmalm’s Owls. Wallcreepers nest on the distant crags above, but we would be fortunate to see one.
Golden Eagles hunt around the mountain tops where Chamois, Marmots, Alpine Accentor and Water Pipit breed. A walk below the peaks of Chopok and Dumbier will give us the opportunity to search for them if the weather is fine.
Nestled between the High and Low Tatra Mountain ranges, is the Váh Plain where Honey Buzzards and Lesser Spotted Eagles hunt. River Warbler, Marsh Warbler, Red-backed Shrike and Scarlet Rosefinch will be arriving to occupy territories in waterside scrub, where European Otters have been seen. Hawfinches are common and woodpeckers should be checked for Middle Spotted, Three-toed, Black, Grey-headed and Wryneck.
On day four, we will head south to the Karst district, for a stay of two nights. The Karst has wonderful limestone valleys with old beech woods that contain Middle Spotted and White-backed Woodpeckers, Tengmalm’s Owl, plus Collared and perhaps the first Red-breasted Flycatchers of the season.
The jagged crags are home for Rock Thrush and Rock Bunting while Hoopoe and Golden Oriole can be seen almost anywhere here.
This tour is not just about birds. To walk through these ancient woodlands, which contain many flowers and butterflies, is a real privilege. The streams and ponds are breeding grounds for the Fire Salamander, a big black and orange amphibian that was the primitive symbol of alchemy. Its skin is poisonous and so we will refrain from picking one up, but the bird of the trip will have to be special indeed to beat a Fire Salamander. Camberwell Beauty butterflies feed in the open parts of the valley where Corncrake and River Warbler will be arriving to begin their monotonous courtship songs.
Another highlight will be to see a Ural Owl. This ghost of the forest is common and typical of the region, breeding in good numbers in years when voles are numerous.
Heading south we pass White Storks nesting in the villages as we enter Hungary. At Encs Gibart we will look for Barred Warbler, Hawfinch and Hoopoe in the scrub, while raptors are often in evidence.
The Bűkk Mountains hold nesting Eastern Imperial Eagles in good numbers and a few Saker Falcons. White-backed Woodpecker, Corncrake, River Warbler and Red-breasted Flycatcher are all possible here too. We will spend the last two nights here.
On day eight we shall have a last opportunity for some birdwatching before returning to Budapest Airport for our evening flight home.
Breakfast will be taken at about 7am most mornings. This trip has a more demanding terrain than most of our European destinations. Visits to the mountains will involve uphill walking at a sensible pace. Day-long birdwatching excursions will be made with short and medium length walks.
Full-board accommodation is provided, with three nights at Liptovsky Jan in the Tatra Mountains, two nights at Ranc Sugov in the Karst District and two nights at Nomad Hotel, Noszvaj. All hotels are of a good standard and all rooms have en suite facilities. Packed lunches will be taken every day.
PRICE INCLUDES …..
All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local guide, full-board accommodation (starting with lunch on 23rd, ending with lunch on 30th), local transport by mini-bus, reserve entrance fees, soft drinks at meal-times, international flights and airport taxes.
Our optional travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry. Bear watching from a hide has been poor here recently. If we hear of successful viewing, we may be able to arrange an evening visit, and you can pay for this locally.
Return flights from London Heathrow to Budapest using the scheduled services of Malev Hungarian Airlines. Outbound flight departs early morning, with return landing mid-evening. Shuttle flights are available on this tour for £70 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports. However, due to the flight times it may be necessary to stay overnight at Heathrow.
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7 nights:
Principal leader:
Local guide:
Maximum group size:
Cost with discount (if you book before 7th February 2009):
Full Cost:
Single supplement:
Deposit:
Insurance premium:
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23rd to 30th May 2009
Phil Palmer
Balazs Szigeti/Ecotours
13 clients with one leader and a local guide
£1490 per person sharing
£1590 per person sharing
£150
£300
£26 due at time of booking (£39 for age 65 to 69) (£52 for age 70 and over)
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Fire Salamander
Although quite common, the Pygmy Owl is a difficult bird to locate.
Firecrests are common in the mountains
