More than a decade ago, Phil was asked to assist with collecting DNA from European Nightjars in Transylvania. Taking blood from a creature in the land of Vlad the Impaler seemed rather appropriate! While there, he fell in love with this unspoilt region, that was largely passed over by the changes of the twentieth century.

 

Local villagers of Saxon and Hungarian descent showed him their traditional way of life. They also showed him more Wallcreepers in one day than he had seen in his life, so he vowed to return. In 2005 and 2007, he visited Hungary and Transylvania to lay the foundation for this special tour.

 

Ancient villages and Saxon churches nestle amongst forests, precipitous limestone gorges and high alpine meadows that are retained through medieval management regimes. We will avoid the stark grey hotels of the communist era and stay in small friendly establishments. We may also linger long enough at Dracula’s castle to see it as the sun sets!

 

With a population of roughly 3,000 European Brown Bears, the region offers a great chance to see mainland Europe’s largest carnivore. We have teamed up with the organisers of the WWF’s Large Carnivore Project to ensure that we have an excellent chance of seeing them.

 

In this timeless part of Eastern Europe we will look for bird species that are rarely seen on our other European tours. Autumn is an active time for Three-toed Woodpecker, Nutcracker, Crossbill, Capercaillie and Hazel Grouse, the latter one of the hardest birds to see in Europe.

 

The spectacular Bicaz Gorge offers one of the most reliable chances to see Wallcreeper in Europe, whilst the bird spectacle on the Hungarian Puzsta is reaching its peak at this time of year. Hundreds of Red-footed Falcons, Stone Curlews and Dotterels gather prior to migration. It is also a great area for both Saker Falcon and Eastern Imperial Eagle. Common Cranes and Pygmy Cormorants can be seen among thousands of wetland birds.

 

ITINERARY

 

HORTOBÁGY

We arrive at Budapest and head towards Hungary’s Hortobágy, our base for the first two nights. En route we will look for some of the many woodpeckers that the region is famous for, as well as watching out for Eastern Imperial Eagle and Saker Falcon. Both these raptors specialise in hunting Susliks, a small ground squirrel that lives in the area.

 

Migration here is spectacular, with thousands of waterbirds passing through, together with hundreds of raptors. Waders include Ruff, Marsh Sandpiper, Broad-billed Sandpiper and Temminck’s Stint, whilst the meadows hold flocks of Common Cranes, Stone Curlews and Dotterel. These attract eagles of up to four species, Eastern Imperial and the massive White-tailed being the most sought after. Red-footed Falcons may be seen in flocks of hundreds, picking off dragonflies and other flying insects.

 

One day will be spent checking the puzsta and wetlands. This is a UNESCO site, and is home to Great Bustard, Pygmy Cormorant, Caspian Gull, Hoopoe and Moustached Warblers. Montagu’s Harriers and Bee-eaters will be heading south, and there is the chance of Pallid Harrier. Penduline and Bearded Tits bounce around in the reed beds, while masses of egrets, spoonbills and herons take advantage of the drained fishponds. Our hotel is in the national park and has Golden Orioles and Long-eared Owls close by.

 

TURDA GORGE

The next day we continue our journey, crossing the border into Romania, and travelling to Turda for a stay of one night. Turda is a wonderful limestone gorge where Golden Eagle, Alpine Swift and Rock Thrush occur. Rock Buntings live amongst the cliffs and Syrian Woodpeckers can be found in the villages. Black Redstarts perch on roof-tops, while fields hold Tawny Pipit and Crested Lark.

 

HARGHITA

On day four we will travel towards the Szeckler villages near Harghita Mountain, breaking our journey in Sighişoara, the ancient fortified Saxon capital of Transylvania. There will be time to explore the beautiful narrow cobbled streets and walled citadel before continuing on.

 

We will spend two mornings in forests below Harghita Mountain where Capercaillies and Hazel Grouse are numerous. Autumn is a good time to find these elusive birds and an early start will increase our chances. The woods contain Crossbill, Crested Tit, Firecrest, Three-toed Woodpecker and Ural Owl. Pygmy and Tengmalm’s Owl also occur, but are elusive. Above the tree line, Water Pipit and Ring Ouzel feed, and Nutcrackers can also be found.

 

One afternoon we will travel to Bicaz Gorge. This spectacular site has a very good population of Wallcreepers. On another afternoon, we will visit Sậnpaul Fishponds where Ferruginous Duck, Garganey, Purple Heron and Whiskered Tern feed. Wetlands always produce numerous species and our impressive tally last year included Temminck’s Stint, Red-throated Pipit and a Black Stork mobbing an Osprey!

 

ZĂRNESTI

On day seven we will drive to Zărnesti, our base for the last three nights. On the way, we will travel through villages where the horse and cart is as popular as the family car. A leg stretch by a fortified Saxon Church may be an option before checking ancient beech forests for Black Woodpecker or Ural Owl. Our guesthouse is nestled in a small valley near Zărnesti. Wryneck, Grey-headed Woodpecker and Black Redstart can be found in the surrounding gardens.

 

One day will see us walking through the beautiful Zărnesti Gorge, below the snow-capped peak of Piatra Crăiului. The gorge holds Alpine Swift, Crag Martin, White and Grey Wagtails, Dipper and Rock Bunting. Migrants are on the move and this valley acts as a funnel, with Goshawk and Honey Buzzard seen regularly. Red-backed and Northern Grey Shrikes can both be found, while Lesser Spotted Eagles hunt over the meadows.

 

Wolves and Lynx patrol the area but are only seen with luck. However, we will walk through a private meadow to a hide where European Brown Bears regularly appear in the early evening. Several bears can visit at the same time, building up fat reserves prior to hibernation. On one trip we found Ural Owl quartering the nearby meadows, while a Grey-headed Woodpecker was a highlight here last year.

 

One day we will visit meadows and woods by the Bucegi Natural Park. Ring Ouzel and Dipper breed in the hills, whilst the forests hold Nutcracker, and White-backed and Black Woodpeckers. There may be Red-breasted and Collared Flycatchers still present, as well as numerous Hawfinches that gather into flocks. In the afternoon we will visit Bran, one of thirty castles from which Vlad Tepes defended Transylvania from the invading Turks. Impaling his enemies, he was the Romanian hero that Bram Stoker turned into Count Dracula.

 

On day ten we will drive to Bucharest, arriving in good time for our flight home.

 

PACE

Breakfast will normally be taken at about 7am, although we may rise earlier to look for Capercaillie. Visits to the mountains will involve uphill walking at a sensible pace. Day-long birdwatching excursions will be made with short and medium length walks. Bear watching involves a visit to a hide in the evening.

 

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD

Full-board accommodation is provided, with two nights in the Hortobagy, one night near Turda, three nights at Harghita and three nights at Zarnesti. All accommodation is of a good standard and all rooms have en suite facilities. Packed lunches will be taken every day.

 

PRICE INCLUDES …..

All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local guide, full-board accommodation (starting with dinner on 12^th, ending with lunch on 21^st), local transport by mini-bus, reserve entrance fees, one evening bear-watch, soft drinks at meal-times, international flights and airport taxes.

 

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED

Our optional travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry.

 

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

Return flights from London Heathrow to Budapest, returning from Bucharest, using the scheduled services of British Airways. Outbound flight departs early morning, with return landing late afternoon. Shuttle flights are available on this tour for £70 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports. However, due to the flight times it may be necessary to stay overnight at Heathrow. Please call for details.

 

9 nights:                                Principal leader:   Local guide:   Maximum group size:   Cost with discount (if you book before 30th May 2009):   Full Cost:   Single supplement:   Deposit:   Insurance premium:

12th to 21st September 2009   Phil Palmer   Balazs Szigeti/Ecotours   12 clients with one leader and a local guide     £1690 per person sharing   £1790 per person sharing   £180   £300   £26 due at time of booking (£39 for age 65 to 69) (£52 for age 70 and over)