ESTONIA
From time to time various countries catch the imagination of the travelling birdwatcher, and become very popular almost overnight. Estonia has rapidly become a favourite. Having completed seven successful trips to this Baltic country, we have been enthralled by the surprises it has to offer. With its Siberian-like forests, Scandinavian peat-bogs, watermeadows full of geese and waders, and a fascinating coastline, together with a small human population, empty roads and excellent infrastructure we have found it impossible to fault the country.
Our quest for Great Snipe, Red-necked
Grebe, Long-tailed Duck, White-tailed Eagle, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Capercaillie,
Ural Owl, Wryneck, Thrush Nightingale, Penduline Tit, Common Rosefinch and
various other eastern migrants will see us visiting a substantial portion of
this small country. Estonia's wetlands are situated on the Baltic flyway and are
used as a brief stopover for migrants en route to Siberia. The birdwatching
record books are being re-written as birders log amazing numbers of migrants
here.
The timing of our visit is critical; any earlier and some sought-after summer migrants will not have arrived; any later and the spectacular wildfowl migration would be finished and the Great Snipes would be hidden in long grass. Get it just right, as we believe we have, and it is possible to watch the lekking antics of Great Snipe, find migrant Red-breasted Flycatcher, Common Rosefinch and Corncrake and listen to the songs of Thrush Nightingale and Wryneck from our bedroom windows!
Estonia is a wonderful land that gives a glimpse of how Western Europe used to be before the ravages of modern man took their toll. It holds annual surprises, as migration is very unpredictable but always rewarding.
Having arrived at Tallinn, we will drive straight to Lihula, a journey of 70 miles. Situated at the edge of Estonia's premier reserve, Lihula is an ideal base for Matsalu Bay, as well as for visiting the South Vainameri Straits.
Matsalu is one of the most important wetlands in Northern Europe; a vast coastal
bay where deciduous and mixed forests give way to water-meadows, huge reedbeds
and a large but shallow lagoon, interspersed with numerous small inlets and
islands. Black-tailed Godwits breed; Bitterns boom; White-tailed Eagles hunt
nervous wildfowl; and Fieldfare nest colonially in villages. Wrynecks are fairly
common, Red-backed Shrike and Bluethroat are likely, and we will check the
flooded fields for Garganey and three species of harrier. White Storks are
common here, nesting in close proximity to farmhouses, and the rare Black Stork
is also possible.
One day we will look for migrating birds using the South-Vainameri Straits. A
staggering one million Long-tailed Ducks pass through Vainameri on migration,
peaking in May. Velvet and Common Scoters, Goldeneye, Common Eider and
Black-throated and Red-throated Divers all move through, given favourable winds.
Migration can be unpredictable, but has the potential to provide surprises. On
one visit, raptor migration was obvious with Golden, White-tailed and Lesser
Spotted Eagles coming in off the sea. They were accompanied by Rough-legged
Buzzard, Osprey, Hobby and Common Crane.
Barnacle Geese use the area as a rest-stop, and up to ten thousand birds can be
seen, again peaking in May. One year we even found a beautiful Red-breasted
Goose among them. Waders present include summer-plumage Ruff, Black-tailed
Godwit, Turnstone and jet black Spotted Redshank, whilst numerous terns can
include Caspian, Little, Arctic and Sandwich. In broadleaf forest Thrush
Nightingale will be singing, having just arrived from African wintering grounds.
Elsewhere this is a difficult species, but we have enjoyed amazing views of this
skulker on each trip.
Attractive woodland flowers should just be coming into bloom. Camberwell Beauties and Map butterflies may be seen sunbathing, while Icterine Warblers and Hawfinch are fairly common. Even in the towns, Fieldfares provide entertainment as they see off Jackdaws and Hooded Crows.
On day four we will drive south down the coast to Haademeeste, for a stay of two nights. This small town is ideally situated to visit the famous Nigula Bog, as well as nearby Kabli bird observatory.
Our hotel is situated in a delightful area, where short walks have produced
sightings of such diverse birds as Common Rosefinch, Pied Flycatcher, Crested
Tit, Capercaillie and Grey-headed Wagtail. A short drive will bring us to Nigula
Bog where we will see an example of a raised peat bog, one of the most
threatened habitats in Europe. Although short on bird species the experience of
looking into the bottomless inky black pools is not to be missed. Plants are
interesting here, with Bog Rosemary and Shuttlecock Fern very common. On
previous trips we have enjoyed incredible views of Ural Owl and Greater Spotted
Eagle. Common Crane and Wood Sandpiper are a regular sight, breeding in the bog.
Occasional Northern Grey Shrikes can be seen perched on stunted pine trees and
Goldeneye nest by the pools. Walking across the peat bog on a boardwalk we will
reach a wooded 'island' where Parrot Crossbill (in invasion years), ‘Northern’
Bullfinch, ‘Northern’ Nuthatch, 'Boreal' Willow Tit (all northern races of
familiar birds), Red-breasted Flycatcher and Three-toed Woodpecker can sometimes
be found. Black Stork, Black Grouse, Capercaillie and Lesser Spotted Eagle all
nest in the area, but can be hard to find. In 2006 we saw Grey-headed,
White-backed and Black Woodpeckers.
We will also check reedbeds and ponds along the Baltic shore. Early risers may have already seen the visible migration, as wildfowl and waders head north. These include Velvet Scoters, Common Scoters, Little Gulls and Black-throated Divers. The coastal ponds are home to nesting Penduline Tit, Great Reed Warbler and Garganey, while migrants seen here in the past have included Serin and both Red-backed and Northern Grey Shrike. Ospreys and Common Cranes use the pines in the dunes to guide them northwards; visible migration is one of Estonia’s highlights.
Later we will head east to Tartu, for our final two nights. Here we will check the marshes for migrant waders and wildfowl. Black Terns nest on floating vegetation, while Little Gulls form large feeding flocks that periodically break away to drive off a marauding harrier or Goshawk. An adult with a pink flush to its breast is one of the daintiest of gulls. Wryneck, Penduline Tit, Common Rosefinch, Golden Oriole and Redwing nest in the copses and Savi’s Warblers reel from the reedbeds. Migrant geese may still be moving through. Bean and White-fronted are regular, in turn attracting White-tailed Eagles.
In the evening we will look for lekking Great Snipe. Estonia has become the place to see this species. Unlike in Poland, you do not have to donate blood to mosquitos to see them! There is also the possibility of seeing a Ural Owl and Woodcock on our way back to the hotel.
There are plenty more sites to choose from. These include peat bogs, large fishponds, flooded meadows or taiga forest. The list of possible species is almost endless. Hazelhen and Nutcracker are possible in the woods, but are not seen on every trip. The white-breasted Scandinavian race of Nuthatch, Black Woodpecker, Red-breasted Flycatcher and Wood Warbler are all more likely. On recent trips we have found nesting Marsh Sandpipers, and Citrine Wagtail is an annual visitor.
Estonia is one of the few European countries to retain healthy populations of European Beaver, Brown Bear and Moose. All are naturally shy and difficult to see, but we have seen all three on our previous tours.
On day eight we will head back to Tallinn for our flight home. Alternatively, why not extend your stay and spend a couple of days visiting Tallinn?
Breakfast will be taken at about 7am, perhaps later if the previous day has been tiring. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and short/medium length walks on the flat will be undertaken regularly. There are no uphill walks, but we will visit tower hides.
Full-board accommodation is provided with three nights at the Hotel Luige Villa, near Matsalu, two nights at the Valge Hotel, near Nigula and two nights at a good hotel near Tartu. All hotels are of good standard and all rooms have en suite facilities. Packed lunches will be taken every day.
PRICE INCLUDES …..
All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board accommodation, local transport by mini-bus, reserve entrance fees and guiding fees, soft drinks at meal-times, return flight to Tallinn and airport taxes.
Our optional travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry.
Return flights from London Heathrow to Tallinn (via Copenhagen) using the scheduled services of Scandinavian Air. Outbound flight departs mid-morning, with return landing mid-evening. Shuttle flights are available on this tour for £70 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports.
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7 nights:
Principal leader:
Maximum group size:
Cost with discount (if you book before 3rd February 2008):
Full Cost:
Single supplement:
Deposit:
Insurance premium:
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19th to 26th May 2008
Phil Palmer
7 clients with one leader
£1250 per person sharing
£1350 per person sharing
£130
£200
£26 due at time of booking (£39 for age 65 to 69) (£52 for age 70 and over)
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We have managed to see Ural Owl on all five tours to Estonia. This one posed nicely in 2005.
Cranes are common nesting birds in Estonia. At the time of our tour, local birds are starting to nest, while Russian birds are passing through.
Barnacle Geese over the Baltic - chased by a White-tailed Eagle
Migrating Bluethroats are difficult to spot as they are real skulkers. This one fed around boats in a small harbour at Matsalu.
We found a Citrine Wagtail on our first trip to Estonia when it was a very rare bird. Since then, they have become regular breeders.
The first Corncrakes arrive at the time of our visit. The shorter vegetation at this time helps us to locate these and the Great Snipe.
Our small family run hotel near Matsalu in a typical Estonian village.
Penduline Tits will be nest-building. This male showed well in 2005.
An Estonian meadow in early spring
The peat bogs attract breeding Wood sandpiper, Black-tailed Godwit and Common Gull
Meadows around Matsalu Bay
The pine forest is home to Nutcracker, Crested Tit, Bear & Capercaillie
Migrating Swallows rest at Matsalu
The Northern Nuthatches have white breasts. This bird nested next to our hotel.
Estonian Manor House.
The Elk or Moose is common at Matsalu
Estonia is home to several reed-loving skulkers.
The Great Reed Warbler is perhaps the most likely to be heard first as its loud voice carries for long distances.